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Topstitch, Stay Stitch, & Understitch... What's The Difference?

Updated: Dec 7, 2023

Sewing is a wonderful and creative activity that allows you to make your own clothes, accessories, and home decor. However, it can also be a bit confusing at times, especially when it comes to different sewing techniques. In this blog post, we'll take a closer look at three sewing techniques that are commonly used in sewing projects: stay stitch, understitch, and topstitch.


 

Stay Stitch

A stay stitch around a neckline

A stay stitch is a simple and handy sewing technique that is used to prevent the fabric from stretching or distorting during the sewing process. It is a single line of stitching that is sewn just inside the seam allowance of the fabric.

The purpose of a stay stitch is to keep the fabric in its original shape, especially around curves or corners. It is particularly useful when sewing with fabrics that are prone to stretching, such as knits, lightweight or delicate fabrics like silk, chiffon, or satin, or bias-cut fabric.

To sew a stay stitch, simply sew a straight line of stitches within the seam allowance, usually about 1/8 inch from the raw edge of the fabric. It's important to use a slightly shorter stitch length than you would for regular sewing, to help keep the fabric from puckering or stretching. You can sew a stay stitch by hand or using a sewing machine, depending on your preference.

Stay stitches are especially useful when sewing garments, as they help to stabilize the fabric during construction, ensuring that it maintains its shape and doesn't become distorted. Commonly, if you're sewing a neckline, you would sew a stay stitch around the curve of the neckline to keep it from stretching or becoming misshapen when you attach the facing or collar.


Understitch

Understitching is a sewing technique that is used to help a facing or lining lie flat and stay in place on the inside of a garment. When you sew a facing or lining to a garment, the seam allowance can sometimes flip up or show through to the outside of the garment. Understitching involves stitching the facing or lining to the seam allowance, usually about 1/8" from the seam line, so that the facing or lining stays in place and doesn't flip up or show through to the outside.

Most commonly understitching is used on necklines that have facings or garments with a lining and plackets. This technique is a perfect way of keeping the lining fabric in place and adds a super professional look. Understitching is usually done with a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch. It is a subtle technique that helps to give a garment a more professional and polished look.


Topstitch

Close up of decorative stitching around a neckline

Finally, let's talk about topstitching. Topstitching is a sewing technique that is used to sew a visible row of stitching on the right side of a garment, usually along a seam or edge. Topstitching can be done for decorative purposes, to add strength to a seam, or to keep a seam or edge flat. Topstitching can be done with a variety of stitches, including straight stitches, zigzag stitches, or decorative stitches, and is often done with a contrasting thread color to make the stitching stand out. It's also a nice touch to topstitch an understitched edge.

Topstitching can be done by hand or by machine. It is a versatile technique that can be used in a variety of ways to enhance the look and functionality of a garment.



Each technique has its own unique purpose and can be used to create different effects on a garment. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced sewist, it's important to have a good understanding of these techniques so that you can use them effectively in your sewing projects.


I hope you found this blog post helpful and informative. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them below. And happy sewing!





difference between topstitch, stay stitch, and understitch


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